2 x Unusual Decrease techniques – Stepped and Sloped

As the festive season is approaching and a lot of people has busy hands… including myself I have decided to slow down on the posting activity. I hope that all my loyal crochet learners and followers will not mind fortnightly posting instead of weekly. I believe there is so much to do during a holiday and Christmas season so there is only a little time left for learning new crochet stitches… 🙂

At this article I will explain crochet decrease techniques, which are used for shaping the edges (end of the rows) of the crochet projects.

Stepped technique is usually used, when you working on a project with edging – e.g. blanket, table cloth or any other decorative items and you want to have the edging to be stepped (e.g. staircase look). It is good for making a Christmas Tree appliqués too :).

Or also you can use this technique, when you are making pullover sleeve, which is going to be looking like smocking/ shirring stitch was used on the shoulder attachment. When such sleeve is fitted into the rest of the front and back piece it creates the creases around the armhole and shoulder making them looking like puff sleeve (90’s look is back in trend… I know 🙂 ).

Sloped technique is usually used, when you need a mild transition on the edges. E.g. shaping a sleeve of a jumper, while using a taller stitch (double crochet, treble or anything taller than that).

1. Stepped decrease at the end of the row

  • Stitch the required number of rows without decrease (in my case 11 SC).
  • Turn your work without working any turning chains!
  • Insert the hook, from front to back, through the first stitch of the row and wrap the yarn in the barb of the hook. 
  • Pull the yarn through both stitches and loops on the hook. 
  • 1 loop remains on the hook. 
  • Continue working slip stitches across the row until you have decreased the required number of stitches ( in my case 5 stitches). 
  • Work required number of turning chains (in my case 1 CH), but DO NOT TURN THE WORK ! 
  • Work stitches across the row as required. 
  • You may also wish to decrease in the same way on the opposite end of the work. Stop stitching before the end of the row, leaving the required number of stitches unworked (in my case 5 stitches).
  • Work your turning chains (in my case 1 CH), turn your project and begin the next row.
  • A little project with STEPPED decrease on the picture below: 

2. Sloped decrease at the end of a row

Note: this is best used for double crochet and longer stitches rather shorter stitches like single or slip stitch. This example is using a  treble stitch as the main stitch for demonstration.

  • Turn your project. Work 1 CH for turning.  
  • Work SC (single crochet stitch) into the first stitch of the previous row. 
  • If you want to have the same sloped decrease at the other end of the row as well, you need to start the shorten the stitches in reverse order.  
  • 4 stitches prior to the end of the row – work 1 x TR, 1 x DC, 1 x HDC and 1 x SC to the last stitch. 

  • Work one turning chain (in my case 3 CH) and turn your project. You may decrease again or work in TR across – depends what pattern tells you and what are you shaping.
  • A little project with SLOPED decrease on the picture below: 

Iva’s crocheting tips

  • MARKERS – if you need to increase / decrease at the same position in all your rows (subsequent rows) of your project, place a marker (what is a marker or what else can be used instead of a marker is explained here in my previous article What you need to start – Basic Crochet Supplies
  • EDGES – to keep neat and straight edges, while you are decreasing or increasing try to avoid using the very last stitch at the end of the row (if your pattern allows you to do that). Instead decrease or increase at the second (adjacent) stitch to the very last one. But as mentioned, not always possible to be done, sometimes you need to use the very last one stitch.
  • SLOPE/ STEEPNESS OF THE SHAPE – the slope of the shape is determined by what type stitch you are working and also how steep you want the slope. E.g. row with half double crochet (Half Double Crochet – half short & half long) will require 1 x single crochet (Chain stitch & Single Crochet Stitch) to create the slope. A row of double crochet stitches (How to make Double Crochet (dc) – Treble Crochet (tr) stitch) will require 1 x half double crochet & 1 x single crochet stitch to create a slope and etc. I would not use slope decrease for anything shorter than half double crochet.

Happy Crochet Shaping!

I.

Half Double Crochet – half short & half long

The Half Double Crochet Stitch (abbreviated hdc) or also known as Half Treble Crochet Stitch (htr) in British terminology is most commonly used when making blankets, garments or decorative items like appliqué flowers. IMG_9619

The half double crochet is somewhat a bizarre stitch. The half double crochet falls in between a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch in height, but instead of working off two loops at a time, you draw the yarn through three loops on the hook at once. It produces a fairly tight fabric similar to one made with a single crochet stitch, but more stretchy.

How to make Half Double Crochet Stitch – Step by Step

  1. Work the required number of chain stitches (abbreviated as CH) for the width of your piece and then 2 more chain stitches (turning chain). I made 10 CH + 1 CH turning in my example. Refer to the blog post Chain stitch & Single Crochet Stitch for instructions on how to make a chain stitch.IMG_8743
  2. First Row: Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook. This is known as yarn over (abbreviated as YO). IMG_6940
  3. Take the hook from front to back through the third chain (if you turning with 2 CH) or second chain (if you turning with 1CH like me) from the hook. There are three loops on the hook. IMG_6659
  4. Take the yarn from back to front over the hook. IMG_0599
  5. Catch this section of yarn in the barb of the hook. Draw the hook backwards to pull the yarn through the loop of the chain stitch. IMG_7195
  6. Three loops remain on the hook. IMG_0123
  7. Wrap the yarn over the hook in the same manner as in the Step 2.IMG_3948
  8. Draw the hook backwards to pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook. IMG_6517
  9. One loop remains on the hook and the stitch is completed. IMG_5119
  10. Working through the next chain, repeat steps 2 to 9 to form a second stitch.
  11. Continue to the end of the chain, working the half double crochet stitch into each one chain stitch.
  12. Work two chain stitches (this is the turning chain).
  13. Turn the piece.
  14. Subsequent rows: Skip first 2 chain stitches as these will count as the turning chain. Yarn over hook once, insert hook from front to back in the center of the third chain from the hook. Yarn over, draw the yarn through the chain (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, draw through 3 loops on hook (one half double crochet stitch complete). Continue until you reach desired length of the piece.
  15. Refer to the video link for motion instructions How to do Half Double Crochet Stitch HDC

HDC Turning 2 Chain Stitch – Yes? or No?

You can also watch a video link showing the pros and cons of 2CH turn and 1CH turn with hdc stitch here hdc turn with 1CH and 2CH – the differences.

2 CH Turning with HDC stitch

I am not a big fan of long turning chain stitches as for some reason it always creates a little space hole between the turning stitch and next crocheted stitches (maybe it is just me not knowing how to crochet properly 🙂 ).

So here is pictured turning with 2 chain stitches and the space left between turning stitches and subsequent hdc stitches:

1 CH Turning with HDC stitch

Turning with 1 chain stitch gives you a smooth straight edge as well as no visible space between the stitches so I prefer this option. I am personally a heavy user of the 1 CH stitch turn for nearly all situations where the project is a flat piece (e.g. blankets, jumpers, headbands…).

I.

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started